Why won't my blueberries grow?

The #1 cause of blueberry failure is wrong soil pH. Blueberries need very acidic soil (pH 4.5-5.5). Most garden soils are pH 6-7. Test your soil and amend with sulfur (takes 6-12 months to lower pH). Also add generous amounts of peat moss when planting and use acidic mulch (pine needles, pine bark).

How do I choose the right fruit tree rootstock?

Rootstock determines tree size, precocity (how soon it fruits), anchoring, and disease resistance. Dwarf trees are great for small spaces but need permanent staking. Semi-dwarf is usually best for home gardens - manageable size, no staking, fruits relatively young. Standard rootstock creates large, long-lived trees but takes longer to fruit and requires a ladder.

Do fruit trees need to be pruned?

Yes! Unpruned fruit trees become overgrown, produce smaller fruit, and are more disease-prone. Stone fruits (peaches, plums) especially need aggressive annual pruning because they fruit on new wood. Learn the correct shape for your tree type: central leader for apples/pears, open vase for stone fruits.

How much should I prune my grape vine?

Much more than you think! Grapes need 80-90% of the previous year's growth removed annually. An unpruned grapevine will produce many small clusters of poor-quality grapes. Prune in late winter while fully dormant. For established vines, leave only 40-60 buds total.

When do I renovate my strawberry bed?

Renovate June-bearing strawberries immediately after harvest (late June/July). Mow or cut the foliage to 1 inch above crowns, narrow rows to 12 inches wide, apply fertilizer, and water well. Don't renovate everbearing or day-neutral types. Most strawberry beds should be replanted after 3-4 years.

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Perennial Edibles

Fruits, Berries & Vines

Q: What's the difference between floricane and primocane berries?

Floricane-fruiting varieties (traditional raspberries/blackberries) produce fruit on second-year canes - the canes grow one year, fruit the next, then die. Primocane-fruiting (fall-bearing) varieties produce fruit on first-year canes in late summer/fall. Primocane types allow for simpler pruning (mow everything in late winter) but typically have a shorter harvest window and smaller berries.

Grow your own berries, fruit trees, and grapes. Learn the difference between floricane and primocane berries, how to prune fruit trees for maximum production, and how to train grape vines for a bountiful harvest.

Berry cultivation

Fruit tree care

Grape training

Understanding Cane Berries

Raspberries and blackberries grow on canes. Understanding cane types is essential for proper pruning.

1️⃣ Primocane

First-year cane

New cane emerging from roots this season
Green, flexible, actively growing
Primocane-fruiting varieties fruit on these in fall
Overwinters to become a floricane next year

2️⃣ Floricane

Second-year cane

Last year's primocane, now in its second season
Brown, woody bark, more rigid
Floricane-fruiting (summer-bearing) varieties fruit on these
Dies after fruiting - remove at ground level

Pruning made simple:

Summer-bearing (floricane): After harvest, cut brown spent canes to ground. In late winter, thin green canes.
Fall-bearing (primocane): Mow everything to 2-3 inches in late winter. Done!

Berry Growing Guide

Planting

Spacing: 12-18 inches apart, rows 3-4 feet apart

Depth: Crown at soil level - critical! Too deep = rot, too shallow = dry out

Timing: Early spring (as soon as soil can be worked) or fall

Soil: Well-drained, slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.8), rich in organic matter

Strawberries Types

June-Bearing

One large crop in late spring/early summer. Largest berries, best for preserving.

Varieties: Chandler, Earliglow, Jewel, Honeoye

Pros:

Biggest harvest at once
Largest individual berries
Best for jam/freezing

Cons:

All-or-nothing harvest
Runners need management

Everbearing

Two crops: spring and fall. Moderate yields throughout season.

Varieties: Ozark Beauty, Quinault, Fort Laramie

Pros:

Extended harvest
Good for fresh eating
Fewer runners

Cons:

Smaller berries
Lower total yield

Day-Neutral

Continuous production from June through frost. Unaffected by day length.

Varieties: Seascape, Albion, Tristar, Tribute

Pros:

Harvest all season
Great for containers
Minimal runners

Cons:

Smallest berries
Heat-sensitive above 85°F

Care Tips

Remove flowers first year for June-bearing (builds stronger plants)
Mulch with straw to keep berries clean and soil cool
Water 1-2 inches weekly, especially during fruiting
Renovate June-bearing beds after harvest: mow, thin, fertilize
Replace plants every 3-4 years as vigor declines

Fruit Tree Basics

Understanding rootstocks, pollination, and pruning for successful fruit trees.

What is a Rootstock?

Fruit trees are grafted: the scion (top, fruit-bearing part) is attached to a rootstock (root system). The rootstock determines the tree's final size, when it starts fruiting, disease resistance, and anchoring needs.

Dwarf (6-10 ft)

Fruits earliest (year 2-3), needs permanent staking, shortest lived

Semi-Dwarf (12-18 ft)

Best for most home gardens, fruits year 3-4, free-standing

Standard (20-30 ft)

Longest lived (100+ years), fruits year 5-8, needs ladder

Apples

Common Rootstocks

M274-6 ft - Ultra-dwarf, needs staking forever

M98-10 ft - Dwarf, most common commercial, needs staking

M2610-12 ft - Semi-dwarf, may need staking first few years

MM10612-16 ft - Semi-dwarf, free-standing, good for most home gardens

MM11116-20 ft - Semi-standard, drought tolerant

Seedling20-30 ft - Full size, longest lived, most cold-hardy

Pollination

Most need a different variety for cross-pollination. Crabapples work.

Pruning

Central leader or modified central leader. Prune in late winter.

Chill Hours

500-1200 depending on variety

Common Issues

Fire blightApple scabCodling mothCedar-apple rust

Pears

Common Rootstocks

Quince C8-12 ft - Dwarf, not compatible with all varieties

OHxF 33312-16 ft - Semi-dwarf, fire blight resistant

OHxF 9716-20 ft - Semi-standard, very fire blight resistant

Bartlett seedling20-30 ft - Standard size, longest lived

Pollination

Need cross-pollination. Seckel and Bartlett are NOT compatible.

Pruning

Central leader. Light pruning - heavy pruning stimulates fire blight-susceptible growth.

Chill Hours

400-900 depending on variety

Common Issues

Fire blight (major!)Pear psyllaCodling moth

Stone Fruits(Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, Cherries, Apricots)

Common Rootstocks

Citation8-14 ft - Semi-dwarf peach/nectarine/plum/apricot

Lovell15-20 ft - Standard peach, good for heavy soils

Nemaguard15-20 ft - Standard peach, nematode resistant

Gisela 58-12 ft - Dwarf cherry

Mazzard20-35 ft - Standard cherry, very long-lived

Pollination

Peaches/nectarines mostly self-fertile. Sweet cherries need cross-pollination. Plums vary.

Pruning

Open vase/center (no central leader). Aggressive annual pruning needed, especially peaches.

Chill Hours

Varies widely: peaches 400-1000, cherries 500-1400

Common Issues

Brown rotPeach leaf curlBacterial cankerPlum curculioBirds (cherries)

Fruit Tree Training Shapes

Central Leader

Best for: Apples, Pears, Sweet Cherries

One dominant vertical trunk with horizontal scaffold branches at intervals.

How to Train:

1Select strongest upright shoot as leader
2Choose 3-4 scaffold branches spaced 6-8 inches vertically, spiraling around trunk
3Remove competing leaders and branches with narrow crotch angles
4Keep scaffold branches shorter than leader

Open Center/Vase

Best for: Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, Apricots, Tart Cherries

No central leader. 3-5 main branches form open bowl shape for light penetration.

How to Train:

1At planting, head back to 24-30 inches
2Select 3-5 well-spaced scaffold branches
3Remove central leader to open up center
4Keep center open annually - stone fruits fruit on new wood

Espalier

Best for: Apples, Pears, Any tree on dwarfing rootstock

Trained flat against wall or fence. Space-saving, ornamental, and practical.

How to Train:

1Plant 6-12 inches from wall
2Install horizontal wires at 18-inch intervals
3Train branches along wires, remove anything growing outward
4Summer prune to maintain shape

Growing Grapes

Grape vines can produce for 50+ years with proper care. Choose the right type for your climate and use.

American (Vitis labrusca)

Varieties: Concord, Niagara, Catawba, Delaware

Flavor: Strong "grapey" flavor, slip-skin

Uses: Juice, Jelly, Fresh eating, Wine

Hardiness: Very cold hardy (-20°F or colder)

Disease Resistance: Resistant to most grape diseases

European (Vitis vinifera)

Varieties: Thompson Seedless, Flame, Chardonnay, Cabernet

Flavor: Classic wine grape and table grape flavor

Uses: Wine, Table grapes, Raisins

Hardiness: Less cold hardy (0-10°F)

Disease Resistance: Susceptible to many diseases, needs spraying

French-American Hybrids

Varieties: Marquette, Frontenac, La Crescent, Chambourcin

Flavor: Wine-quality flavor with better hardiness

Uses: Wine, Some fresh eating

Hardiness: Good cold hardiness (-20 to -30°F)

Disease Resistance: Good disease resistance

Muscadine (Vitis rotundifolia)

Varieties: Scuppernong, Carlos, Noble, Triumph

Flavor: Unique musky, sweet flavor

Uses: Fresh eating, Wine, Juice, Jelly

Hardiness: Heat-loving, not cold hardy (Zone 7+)

Disease Resistance: Extremely disease resistant

Training Systems

Four-Arm Kniffin

Simple system with two wires. Good for American grapes and beginners.

Setup: Two wires at 3 and 6 feet. Train 4 canes (2 per wire) in opposite directions.

High Cordon

Permanent horizontal arms (cordons) with fruiting canes hanging down.

Setup: Single wire at 6 feet. Train permanent cordons, spurs produce fruit.

VSP (Vertical Shoot Positioning)

Professional system for vinifera. Shoots trained upward between wires.

Setup: 3-4 wires, shoots grow up between catch wires. Most labor intensive.

Grape Pruning Essentials

Timing: Late winter while fully dormant (February-March). Prune before sap flows.

Grapes fruit on NEW growth arising from LAST YEAR's wood
Remove 80-90% of previous year's growth - yes, really!
Leave 40-60 buds total for mature vine
Spur pruning: Leave 2-3 bud spurs on permanent cordons
Cane pruning: Select pencil-thick canes with 8-12 buds

Propagation Methods

Multiply your berry bushes, grape vines, and fruit trees using these proven techniques.

Fruits, Berries & Vines

Understanding Cane Berries

Berry Growing Guide

Strawberries Types

Fruit Tree Basics

Common Rootstocks

Pollination

Pruning

Chill Hours

Common Issues

Common Rootstocks

Pollination

Pruning

Chill Hours

Common Issues

Common Rootstocks

Pollination

Pruning

Chill Hours

Common Issues

Fruit Tree Training Shapes

How to Train:

How to Train:

How to Train:

Growing Grapes

Four-Arm Kniffin

High Cordon

VSP (Vertical Shoot Positioning)

Propagation Methods

Strawberries2 propagation methods

Strawberries

Raspberries3 propagation methods

Raspberries

Blackberries3 propagation methods

Blackberries

Blueberries3 propagation methods

Blueberries

Grapes3 propagation methods

Grapes

Fruit Trees3 propagation methods

Fruit Trees

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between floricane and primocane berries?

Why won't my blueberries grow?

How do I choose the right fruit tree rootstock?

Do fruit trees need to be pruned?

Why did my fruit tree flower but produce no fruit?

How much should I prune my grape vine?

When do I renovate my strawberry bed?

Related Guides

Pruning & Training

Permaculture

Plant Propagation

Pest & Disease