Berries: Strawberries, Raspberries, Blueberries & Blackberries
Learn to propagate berries through vegetative methods and seed saving.
Overview
Berries are typically propagated vegetatively (runners, cuttings, division) rather than from seed. This is because most named berry varieties don't grow true from seed - offspring may differ significantly from the parent plant. However, if you want genetic diversity or are experimenting with breeding, seed saving is possible with some patience.
Crops Covered:
insect-pollinated
wet processing
1-2 weeks on paper towel
Strawberries: 2-3 years
Understanding Pollination
Berries are insect-pollinated and can cross with other varieties of the same species.
Isolation Distance
150-300 feet for relative purity (vegetative propagation avoids this issue)
Key Tips:
- Strawberry runners produce clones - easiest propagation method
- Raspberry suckers and root cuttings are true to parent
- Blueberry cuttings maintain variety characteristics
- Blackberry tip layering is the simplest propagation method
- Seeds require cold stratification and rarely grow true to type
Step-by-Step Guide
Decide between vegetative propagation (recommended) or seed saving.
- Vegetative: Fast, reliable, true to variety
- Seeds: Slow, unpredictable, creates genetic variation
- For home gardens, vegetative is almost always better
- Seeds are mainly for breeding experiments or growing wild types
Use runners, suckers, cuttings, or layering depending on the berry type.
- Strawberries: Root runners in small pots while attached to parent
- Raspberries: Dig up and transplant root suckers in spring/fall
- Blueberries: Take hardwood cuttings in late winter
- Blackberries: Bury tip of cane - it will root and form new plant
Extract seeds from very ripe berries.
- Let berries become overripe for best seed development
- Mash berries in water and let settle
- Good seeds sink, pulp and empty seeds float
- Rinse seeds and dry on paper towel for 1-2 weeks
- Seeds are very small - handle carefully
Berry seeds need cold treatment before germination.
- Mix seeds with damp sand or peat moss
- Place in sealed bag in refrigerator
- Strawberries: 3-4 weeks cold stratification
- Raspberries/Blackberries: 60-90 days cold stratification
- Blueberries: 90+ days cold stratification
- After cold treatment, sow in sterile seed-starting mix
Harvest Timing
| Crop | Harvest Stage | Days After Flowering |
|---|---|---|
| Strawberries | Very ripe berries, seeds visible on surface | 30-40 days |
| Raspberries | Overripe, soft berries | 40-50 days |
| Blackberries | Overripe, dull black berries | 45-55 days |
| Blueberries | Overripe, soft berries | 60-80 days |
Processing: Wet Method
Mash berries in water to separate seeds from pulp.
- 1Mash overripe berries in bowl of water
- 2Let mixture settle for several minutes
- 3Good seeds sink to bottom
- 4Pour off floating pulp and debris
- 5Repeat until water is clear
- 6Strain seeds and dry thoroughly
Drying & Storage
1-2 weeks on paper towel
Room temperature, good airflow, out of direct sun
Test for Dryness: Seeds should feel dry and not stick together
Paper envelopes, Glass vials, Small jars
Cool, dark, dry. Refrigerator storage extends viability.
Strawberries: 2-3 years, Raspberries/Blackberries: 2-3 years, Blueberries: 2-3 years
- IMPORTANT: Vegetative propagation is faster and more reliable
- Seed-grown plants take 2-3 years to fruit (blueberries even longer)
- Seeds rarely grow true to named varieties
- Store seeds in refrigerator for best longevity
Vegetative Propagation (Recommended)
Berries are almost always propagated vegetatively rather than from seed. This ensures the new plants are identical to the parent and produce fruit faster. Each berry type has its own preferred propagation method.
Why Vegetative Propagation?
Seeds don't grow true to type (offspring differ from parent), take 2-3+ years to fruit, and require cold stratification. Vegetative propagation produces fruiting plants in 1 year with guaranteed variety characteristics.
How to do it:
- 1Identify healthy runners extending from mother plant
- 2Place a small pot filled with potting mix under the plantlet
- 3Pin the runner node to the soil with a U-shaped wire or rock
- 4Keep soil moist until roots develop (2-4 weeks)
- 5Cut the runner connecting to mother plant
- 6Transplant to permanent location in fall or early spring
How to do it:
- 1Locate suckers growing 6-12 inches from the main plant
- 2Dig around the sucker, preserving roots
- 3Cut the connecting root to the mother plant
- 4Immediately replant at same depth in new location
- 5Water well and mulch around the new plant
- 6Cut cane back to 6 inches to reduce stress
How to do it:
- 1Allow first-year canes (primocanes) to arch toward ground
- 2Bury the tip 3-4 inches deep in soil
- 3Pin in place with a rock or wire if needed
- 4Roots form at the tip over fall/winter
- 5In spring, cut the cane from the mother plant
- 6Dig up the new rooted plant and transplant
How to do it:
- 1Take 6-8 inch cuttings from healthy, year-old wood
- 2Cut bottom at angle below a bud, top straight above a bud
- 3Dip bottom in rooting hormone
- 4Insert 2/3 of cutting into moist potting mix or sand
- 5Keep in cool (40-50°F), bright location
- 6Mist regularly - roots develop in 6-8 weeks
- 7Transplant to pots when well-rooted, harden off before planting out
How to do it:
- 1Take 4-6 inch cuttings from current season's growth
- 2Remove lower leaves, keep 2-3 leaves at top
- 3Dip in rooting hormone
- 4Insert in perlite or peat/perlite mix
- 5Cover with plastic to maintain humidity
- 6Mist daily and provide bottom heat (70°F)
- 7Roots develop in 4-6 weeks