Pattypan Squash

History

Pattypan squash, with its whimsical flying-saucer shape and scalloped edges, represents one of the oldest and most distinctive cultivated squash forms, documented in European herbals as early as the 16th century after seeds arrived from the Americas. Native Americans cultivated similar scallop-edged squash for centuries before European contact, and the variety quickly became popular in colonial American gardens. Thomas Jefferson famously grew "cymlings" (an old name for pattypan) at Monticello and considered them among his favorite vegetables. The name "pattypan" derives from a type of small pan used for baking pastries and pies in colonial kitchens—the squash's fluted edges resembled the crimped edges of pie pans. Alternative names include scallop squash, cymling, custard marrow, and sunburst squash (specifically for yellow varieties). The French call it "pâtisson" and prize the baby specimens, while Italians know it as "zucchina centenaria." Pattypan's unique shape is not just decorative—it creates a perfect vessel for stuffing and allows the squash to cook evenly when grilled or roasted whole. Baby pattypans, harvested at 2-3 inches across, are tender enough to eat raw, while larger ones require cooking. The variety had somewhat fallen out of fashion by the late 20th century, overshadowed by zucchini's ubiquity, but farmers' markets and restaurant interest in heirloom varieties have sparked a revival. Modern breeding has expanded the color palette from the original white to include yellow (Sunburst), green (Peter Pan), and even bicolored varieties, making pattypan as visually appealing as it is delicious.